#Chopper 2 master cylinders tee together install#

Color the surface, screw the nut on the bolt, screw the bolt into the master, lightly turn the nut till it bumps the colored surface, screw it all out, look for contact and file as needed to get a complete contact surface. A fine file, a bolt and nut, and a sharpie marker is all you will need. You may need to file the master surface where the sealing washers for the banjo fitting seat to get a good seal. The existing thread will guide a tap in without problem. Just be sure to not screw up the existing threads when drilling. You may have to run a tap into the hole to get the depth needed if your banjo bolt is a bit long. Masters pop apart pretty easy by removing a single snap ring and then simply pull all the inner parts out. I would disassemble the master so any chips can be cleaned out and also prevent drilling into the masters cup or piston. If you must, they can be drilled out completely with no harm done. If the seat is stubborn (most all are happy to NOT just pop out) they can be pulled by drilling and tapping and installing a screw to pull on to get them out. If your line takes a 3/8' or 10MM banjo fitting bolt, carefully pop the line seat out and your off to the races. Have you tried to screw a 3/8'X24 threaded banjo bolt or any 3/8X24 fine threaded bolt into the master as a test? Is the surface of the master where the line screws in a flat surface? Is the seat at the bottom made of brass in an iron or aluminum body master? I'm still guessing here but the master has a 3/8'X24 thread with the seat at the bottom. Metric or not is not a big deal as a 3/8' and a 10MM line will swap so long as the bolt has the proper threads. First, what diameter banjo bolt fits your line? They are in a few sizes.

To adapt that master to a line with a banjo end line is not so easy as I have never seen off the shelf adapters to do so. It's easy to adapt that to a 37 degree line with a simple adapter. Is this right? The master has a 3/8'X24 threaded hole with a flared seat at the bottom of the hole right? When I say a steel line with an inverted flare I am talking a 3/16' diameter steel tube poked through a hollow nut and the steel line has a 45 degree double flare on the end.

#Chopper 2 master cylinders tee together install#

You want to install a smaller bore diameter master but it uses a steel inverted flare type line. From what I gather you have a line that has a banjo type end now. Looking for a cheap way to make it work,without ordering special brake line. The answer is changing to 5/8 bore master, but the one i have doesnt accept banjo fittings. I have 07 caliper and 3/4 master.No petal movement,hard to brake. Panhead Fred recently went thru this master swap. Yes its listed as “An “ type,didnt realize the shovel stuff was different. If your new master you want to use has a like diameter, by all means adapt the line, blead the fluid, check for leaks and ride on.Thanks Dan My question is first, is the master bore diameter compatible with the caliper. On average, the oem production type (read low cost) flared line type are a 45 degree double flare and you know they don't mix and match without adapters. I was referring to the threaded portion with the taper the line seals on. Some call that an AN type (army-navy) or JIC and I'm sure there are other descriptions for the same. First thing, yes line adapters can be used if they are leak free.įrom all I have seen the banjo adapter in your pic above is designed for a 37 degree flare.